The Delmas Story

Limoux is a small French appellation in the eastern Pyrenees of France, buried deep in the Languedoc-Roussillon region at the foot of the Pyrenées, near Carcassonne. and surrounding the town of Limoux. Given the southern location and summer heat in the general region, it is disorienting to learn that Limoux is dominated by white grapes – the local Mauzac, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc are grown extensively. This is primarily because of altitude; the vineyards range from 200-400 metres above sea level in this undulating and frequently wild landscape, and hence they are some of the coolest in southern France. While Limoux lies in the otherwise toasty south of France, it’s situated in the Pyrenean foothills – not far from the Atlantic coast. Due to its altitude and cool sea breezes, the climate of Limoux is decidedly non-Mediterranean. In fact, the weather around this community more closely resembles the cool climate mountain villages in France’s southwest.

The “Basic Juice” publication has written an entertaining article about the wines of Blanquette de Limoux. “History tells us that Blanquette de Limoux, the world's first sparkling wine, dates as far back as 1531 – some 137 years before Dom Perignon took credit for the discovery!! At the time, the monks of the Benedictine abbey of Saint-Hilaire, near Limoux, were producing a somewhat unusual white wine in their cellars. Inside its glass flask, with a cork top – very rare for wines at this time – it acquired a natural sparkle. This was the forefather of the “Brut” which is tasted today at the world's most prestigious tables. In autumn the monks harvested Mauzac grapes, the naturally acidic grape variety of the area, and one that is redolent of very-ripe apples. The grapes were pressed and the must began to ferment. Due to the abbey’s high, cool perch in the high Pyrenees terrain, winter often arrived early, and the rapidly dropping temperatures halted fermentation. As spring arrived, the fermentation process began again. Up until the early 1500’s, wine was stored in wooden casks, and thus, carbon dioxide gas produced during this second fermentation escaped unnoticed. However, beginning in the 1530’s the monks of Limoux began wintering their wine in new-fangled glass bottles stopped with cork plugs – courtesy the nearby Catalonian cork-oak forests. The monks now noticed this second fermentation as evidenced by the miraculous spring bubbles. In fact, some even hailed presence of these tasty bubbles as evidence of divine intervention!”

“Over time, bubbly from Limoux came to be called, “Blanquette de Limoux” (Blanquette means ‘white’ in the Occitan language). This isn’t a cheap “Champagne look-alike.” It has a personality all of its own. There’s a golden hue and a foaming mousse with long-lasting and fine bubbles. The world's oldest sparkler is still made to this very day only in Limoux, under the strictest AOC rules. Blanquette de Limoux is the oldest appellation in Languedoc-Roussillon, and one of the first in France. It has the lowest permitted maximum yield of any sparkling wine in the country, and is made exclusively from hand harvested grapes. On the nose there are delicate citrus, quince and yeasty aromas, while the palate is dry and has fresh creamy acidity and bite. Medium-bodied, there’s a very gentle cider-apple character alongside grapefruit and lemon flavours. A nutty and slightly spicy ending and a clean finish round things off. This soft, creamy sparkling wine gained a global following. By the 19th century, Blanquette was enjoying worldwide popularity, from the White House in Washington to the palace of the Czars in St Petersburg. One of its biggest fans was Thomas Jefferson, third President of the United States, author of its Declaration of Independence, and certainly his country's greatest and most famous wine connoisseur. At the time of his death, about 10% of the legendary wine cellar at Monticello was filled with Blanquette de Limoux, the only sparkling wine kept there.”

Actually, the original sparkling wine made at Limoux was sweet and low in alcohol, but even then made from the Mauzac grape. That original version is still made to this day, where it bears the name méthode ancestrale. But, the bubbly now made predominantly with Mauzac, is now known as Blanquette. Indeed, Blanquette is a local name for the Mauzac grape, referring to the distinctive white hairs found on the underside of its leaves. Here, Chardonnay plays a minor role, principally to add some elegance. Thus, the Blanquette de Limoux has a more original and distinctive style and flavor than say, Champagne, and is highly underrated – the true taste of Limoux – and when made well by an artisan winemaker such as Bernard Delmas, the results are delicious and of spectacular value!!

Since they first started cultivating vines, the growers of Limoux have aimed at maintaining the originality of the Blanquette de Limoux growth and developing its quality. The region's surrounding hills protect it from the extremes of the Mediterranean and Atlantic climates, with the area enjoying a microclimate particularly suitable for making quality white wine. The vines classified in the appellation are always planted at the top of southern-facing slopes, giving the best exposure. The soil here is shallow and sparse, full of chalk and stone. The surface area of the vineyards is restricted by quota, the yield is limited, and the grapes are picked manually only, in sections, at the ideal stage of ripening.

As noted, two exclusively white grape varieties – Mauzac and Chardonnay – form the basis of the blend for Blanquette de Limoux. Mauzac, the growth's traditional variety, gives body and aroma. Chardonnay, its irreplaceable partner, reinforces the bouquet, the freshness and the finesse. The result is a dry, creamy-textured, full-bodied wine with a fine yeasty character present in the aroma. Subtly fruity, with toasty green apple and lemon flavors Blanquette de Limoux tastes very clean yet with a long full finish.

A wooden sign on the road near Esperaza along the Routes de Tour de France, in faded letters it states: “Delmas, Vins Biologique, Antugnac, à 3 km.” That is an understatement at best, because Delmas may well be the star of Blanquette de Limoux winemaking. His “Brut Cuvee Berlene” is highly prized in Europe – unbelievable refinement and value! Delmas treats his Mauzac especially well, using the minimum of sulphur, experimenting with skin contact and ageing the wine on the lees longer than the minimum 9 months to enhance flavors. Adding to the “Delmas Legend” is the fact that his wines are purely organic. Referring to its claim to be one of the very limited number of organically produced sparkling wines, its labeling also informs consumers that it is “FOE Organic,” and “vegetarian,” and was produced from organically grown grapes cultivated without chemical fertilizers, weed killers, or pesticides.